The
caretaker of a 500-year-old temple in Assam is the man-on-the-ground at the
state’s only turtle conservation project.
In
1994, the residents of Hajo, a small town in middle Assam, remember
congregating around a rickety old wheelbarrow. Later, as the cart moved around
the town, so did the small procession — each person wanting to pay their
respects and see Mohan one last time.
Mohan,
a 40kg jet-black turtle and resident of the pond that lay next to the town’s
Hayagriva Madhava Temple, had died. And everyone, who had grown up around the
pond, had a “Mohan story” to tell.
Thirty-five-year-old
Pranab Malakar remembers how, as a 10-year-old, he and his friend spent all
their free time at the pond, feeding the turtle, and sometimes even sitting on
it. “Mohan weighed about 40 kgs — he was enormous, bigger than any other turtle
that has ever lived in the pond,” says Malakar.
Black
softshell turtles, the species Mohan belonged to, were classified as extinct by
the International Union for Conservation of Nature’s Red list in 2002. In 2004,
after 408 of them were found in the pond of the Bayazid Bastami shrine in
Bangladesh, the status was changed to “threatened.”
In
the late eighties, research on turtles in Assam was sparse, but Mohan became
the star attraction of Hayagriva Madhava Temple. On most days, it was common
for devotees to worship at the sanctum sanctorum — a stone structure built in
1583 — and then proceed to the pond, calling out to Mohan. The giant creature,
often found sunning himself in the pukhuri paar (or the side of the pond), would
heave himself up and approach his visitors, who would gingerly hold out bits of
biscuits and fruits for him to eat.
“And
he would eat right out of their hands,” says Malakar. Mohan, unlike the other
turtles in the pond, would never bite.
Years
after Mohan died, 16-year-old Malakar was hired as the “caretaker” of the
temple grounds. His job required him to clean the pukhuri, or the pond that lay
adjacent to it,
It
isn’t uncommon for pukhuris (ponds or ancients tanks commissioned under royal
patronage) to be built alongside temples in Assam. Used for ritual bathing and
drinking,
these historical reservoirs, have over the years, become hotspots for rich
forms of biodiversity, especially turtles. Devotees, since times immemorial,
have “donated” turtles to temple ponds in the hope for long and healthy lives.
Hindus believe that turtles are an avatar of Lord Vishnu.
India
will be eternally grateful to Manohar Parrikar, says PM Modi
“As
kids, we were used to having turtles in the ponds. But only later did I really
start really studying them,” says Malakar. The caretaker, who has been educated
till Class 10, says he was soon obsessing over the reptiles. “I bought a couple
of Assamese books, compared pictures and discovered 13 species living in that
single pond.”
Today
Malakar is the man on the ground for the state’s only turtle conservation
project aided by Guwahati-based NGO Help Earth. The project had its first major
success in January when it introduced a batch of 35 black softshell turtles
back to where it belonged: in the wild.
Help
Earth’s turtle conservation project started in 2011 with a $5,000 grant from
the Abu Dhabi-based Mohamed Bin Zayed Species Conservation Fund after much
running around by its members. “Turtles are not tigers and rhinos. It is
difficult to get funds for them,” says Jayaditya Purkayastha, Founder,
HelpEarth. “Both tigers and turtles are Schedule I animals — a classification
under the Wildlife Protection Act that identifies these creatures as
threatened. If a tiger is killed, it is front page news but if a turtle dies,
it is not even a news item.”
Most
ponds have a concrete periphery which is a major hindrance for turtles laying
eggs.(Express photo)"
Over
the years, temple ponds had emerged, though unintentionally, as sites for
turtle conservation. “But it was more ‘spiritual’ conservation rather than
‘scientific.’ People were feeding them biscuits and chips! Nobody was harming
them or killing them but they were not breeding properly either,” says
Purkayastha.
The
group is now doing full-time conservation in 18 temple ponds across Assam, the
focus areas being Ugratora temple and Kamakhya in Guwahati, and Hayagriva
Madhava Temple in Hajo. “The busier the temple, the more the (turtle)
donations,” says Purkayastha, adding that theirs is essentially a
“reintroduction” project. In the Hajo pond, where Malakar works, there are 14
out of 20 species alone.
The
most tangible outcome of Help Earth’s initiative has been setting up of
“egg-incubation rooms” in two temples — Hajo and Ugratora. It is here that the
eggs are reared, before being moved to the Assam Zoo and then being
reintroduced into the wild: either the Brahmaputra or Barak rivers, the two
major rivers that flow through Assam.
Most
ponds have a concrete periphery which is a major hindrance for turtles laying
eggs. “I would find a lot of scar marks on the underside of the turtles — it is
because they were trying to come up to lay eggs, and in the process, scratching
themselves,” says Malakar. In 2010, when a local news channel had visited the
temple, Malakar brought this up and also pointed out the government’s apathy
towards these creatures.
While
the authorities were initially unhappy with Malakar for “not sticking to his
actual job”, he soon became friends with the conservationists who occasionally
visit. “Once, someone took me to a conference on turtles in Guwahati,
well-attended by many scholars. I stood up and asked them a question about when
turtles lay eggs. None of them could answer.”
It
was then that Malakar was called to the front of the room. “They asked me who I
was. When I told them, they asked me how many species lived in the Hajo pond.
And I rattled off the names,” he recalls.
The
most tangible outcome of Help Earth’s initiative has been setting up of
“egg-incubation rooms” in two temples — Hajo and Ugratora.”
Since
then, Malakar has become the go-to man for any turtle query in Assam. The
caretaker says there were many efforts to start a conservation programme but it
was only when he teamed up with Purkayashta in 2016 (incidentally at a
conference) that the process actually began.
In
January, when the first batch of turtles was released into the Handuk Beel of
the Pobitora Wildlife Sanctuary, among the many smiling faces, including top
forest officials, was Malakar’s.
According
to Purkayashta, the project has worked so well in Hajo only because of Malakar.
“We need Malakars not just in Hajo but in all the temple ponds in Assam.”
On
a Sunday morning, a huge model of the black soft-shell turtle stands outside
the Hayagriva Madhava temple in Hajo. “This is our ‘flagship’ species because
at one point, they were thought to be extinct,” says Purkayastha. At the edge
of the pond, many youngsters try to take selfies with, and feed the turtles,
after buying “turtle feed” from a tiny shop on the premises. Chips and biscuits
have been banned.